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Walk About Magazine
   
Devil or Angel? Feast or Famine? The Illustriouis Papa
May-June 2006
By Paul Widerburg


Today I would like to take you on a journey to Europe by starting in the tropical rain forests of Peru. We will have to hike up through the jungle to and elevation of 10,000 feet to the Titicaca Plateau and go back in time over 4,500 years to the Aymara Indians ruins to find the beginnings of the wonderful Papa vegetable.

The first written record of a European encounter with papa was penned in 1537 by Castellanos, a Spanish conquistador. After raiding a village in South America, he found the area deserted and entered the houses in search of treasure. Instead of gold and silver, they found maize, beans, and truffles. These truffles were in fact papa's or what we call potatoes.

The potato spread to Spain then slowly across Europe. The Queen of England ordered her cooks to prepare and entire feast of potatoes. They prepared the plant and not the potatoes themselves. The plant being poisonous didn't sit well with the court. Fear of the potato lasted for centuries, as some people believed that it was unholy or unchristian, dirty, primitive, or unhealthy. Was it a devil or an angel?

However, others began to recognize the potato as a medicinal plant and its popularity soared when it was heralded as a powerful aphrodisiac. Herbalists claimed that the potato could cure ills ranging from diarrhea to tuberculosis. Frederick the Great, the Prussian ruler, ordered his people to plant and eat them as a deterrent to famine. The Prussians fear of poisoning led Frederick to enforce his orders by threatening to cut off the nose and ears of those who refused. Not surprisingly, this was effective and by the time of the Seven Years War (1756-1763), potatoes were a basic part of the Prussian diet. But the French were still suspicious of potatoes. Potatoes gained acceptance in the 18th century through the work of Antoine Parmentier, a French pharmacist who was imprisoned during this war in Prussia. Parmentier gave credit to the potatoes fed to him in jail for his survival. When he was released, Parmentier worked to promote the vegetable in his homeland. He gave flowers to King Louis XVI and Marie Antonette. The King wore them in his lapel and she wore them in well lets say not her lapel. He convinced the king to support the potato and give him a plot of land in the city to grow them. Parmentier asked that the land be guarded only during the day and the guards removed at night. The people saw this and thought this must be and incredibly valuable crop and went in and stole the plants at night and thereby began the popular spread of potatoes in France. Parameter began making incredible dishes out the potato and invited esteemed gentlemen, such as Benjamin Franklin to his home to sample these potato dishes in an attempt to quell the fears of his fellow Frenchmen. Potato Leek soup was his invention. Even now in France most potato dishes carry the name of Parmentier.

The potato has played an important role in Irish history but it was not until 1663 that the potato was established as a field crop. In Ireland the potato found a perfect growing climate and the Irish people quickly embraced the crop as the common daily food. The potato so popular that it was soon established as a national food and the name "Irish Potatoes" was given to them to distinguish them from sweet potatoes. Then the Irish potato crop failed leaving them with no crop the Irish headed to America to help establish this great country.

Thomas Jefferson's support in 1789, the potato was better accepted in America. As the American Minister to France, Jefferson had gained an appreciation for French cooking and, in particular, their potato dishes. Parameter's dishes. Jefferson can be given credit for introducing pomme-frites--the French word for French fries--to American cuisine. Later, as President, he had French fries served in various forms at White House dinners. The rest is history.

Potatoes eaten with the skin provide nearly half of the Daily Value for vitamin C and are one of the best sources of potassium and fiber. Most of the nutrition in not found in the skin but the potato itself but the skin adds important fiber to the diet. One medium-sized potato has 100 calories and provides complex carbohydrates needed to fuel our brains and bodies, giving us the energy we need for a busy lifestyle. One potato provides 3 grams of protein about that of half a glass of milk. You can eat a potato for breakfast, lunch, and dinner and top it with anything. It has been a devil and an angel throughout history, but being a true potato lover that I am, I call it as being a little bit of heaven on earth. Enjoy the thousands of ways you can prepare the great energy food, the papa or potato.


POTAGE PARMENTIER Benjamin Franklin's Favorite:

3 cups leeks, white and tender green parts, sliced (although not original to the recipe, the soup is enriched by sautéing the leeks in 3
Tablespoons of butter as a first step)
4 cups potatoes, peeled and chopped
8 cups water
1 Tablespoon salt
6 Tablespoons heavy cream
Garnish: chopped parsley or chives

In a Dutch oven, simmer the potatoes, leeks, and salt in the water until all are very tender--about 50 minutes. Puree the mixture. When ready to serve, stir in the cream, ladle into bowls, and decorate with herbs.

 
   

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