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When Paul Widerburg told friends that he was planning to establish an open-air produce market in Portland, the general response, he admits, was "In Oregon? Are you crazy?"
Yet since November 20, the once-empty lot at the corner of S.E. 23rd and Hawthorne has been home to Paul's lifelong dream. Uncle Paul's, a year-round market, carrying the freshest produce available. This dream began when Paul was just 14 years old, and got his first job in produce. "I literally fell in love with produce," he says. "I believe that good produce is a work of art, and I always wanted to be in this business." So, after working as a produce manager for many years, Paul jumped at the opportunity to begin his business at the empty lot that was home to waist-high weeds and, once a year, Christmas trees. The lot, which is owned by legendary Portland developer Tom Moyer, had been sitting vacant for many years. Widerburg, however, thought it was the perfect location for his produce market. Not only do his parents live nearby, but his has long loved the neighborhood.
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Owners Paul and Calla Widerburg
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"Having never done anything like this," he says, "I had no idea what to do. I looked up Tom Moyer's address, made a little model of what I wanted the market to look like, and went down to his office with my daughter. I really had no idea what I was doing-- thought I was just going to his office, and it turns out he owns the entire building."
Moyer, however, was won over by Widerburg's enthusiasm and vision for the project, and agreed to lease him the space. When construction was completed in November, Moyer and his granddaughter cut the ribbon at the grand opening ceremony. "He is a very good and decent man," says Widerburg.
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Under the big top at Uncle Paul's
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"I'm so thankful he decided to give me a shot." As it turns out, however, Moyer's approval was only the beginning. "It took me one and a half years to make it through the city's process," Widerburg admits. "And the city gets a lot of flak for things like that, but because I followed all of their rules and regulations, I've got a much better and nicer finished product. They really went out of their way to teach me how to set up a business--I was kind of like the Beverly Hillbilly of the business world, but they showed me what to do."
The market itself is a produce-lover's bonanza--carton after carton of fresh fruit and vegetables, ranging from the common, like Fuji apples, to the uncommon, like uglifruit. As Widerburg walks from display to display, he is quick to point out the vintage advertisements for produce, the fact sheets about each item he sells, as well as the photos of all the farmers who supply him with merchandise. "This one sells me the juiciest cherries you'll find," he says, pointing to the photo of one farmer. "This guy sells garlic that is just incredible." Each photo brings a different recollection, and a smile to Widerburg's face.
"I keep my prices low, which lets me move a lot of produce, which in turn lets me get the best these farms have to offer. I refuse to let any of my produce go bad--I'd rather sell it at cost, or even give it away, then have it go bad."
Widerburg is proud of the relationships he has developed with local farmers. "I have great relationships with all of these farmers," he says, proudly. "In all my years of doing business, I have never met a farmer I didn't fall in love with. You have to be a decent person to be a farmer-- the work is hard, and you really don't earn very much money. I am glad I have the opportunity to support as many local farmers as I can. it gives me a huge kick to help peoples' budgets."
The market is covered by a high-quality tent that keeps out the wind and rain, and features ample parking, a covered parking area for bikes, and a covered area (always well stocked with biscuits) for dogs. Widerburg also points to an impressive fleet of mini-carts--shopping carts smaller than conventional grocery carts. "These allow you to fill up on produce, while not clogging the aisles," he says with satisfaction. Indeed, the aisles of the market are nearly always busy, but the open space and well-designed interior keeps it from feeling cramped.
What began as a dream has now turned into a full-fledged success story. Although the market has been open a little more than a month, Widerburg says that each week sees more customers, as word of mouth spreads the news about his market. "I have regular customers from the neighborhood who come in and tell that they've told all their neighbors and their family about the market," he says. "That makes me feel great. Working in this neighborhood is like being hugged by a giant teddy bear."
Widerburg recounted the story of an older man who entered the market one day, walked up to him, told him he was meant to be on the property, and left without saying another word. "I didn't know what to say," Widerburg admits. "How do you respond to something like that?" The neighborhood, Widerburg says, has been nothing but supportive of him and the business. The location is ideal in many ways, not simply for its closeness to his parents, who live just blocks away, but by its proximity to the Grand Central Baking Company. Pointing at the bakery, Widerburg asks "For a produce market, what could be better than being right next to a bakery? People buying produce can smell that great bread, and people buying bread can smell apples and pears. It's really a perfect combination." Widerburg is enthusiastic about the coming year, when he looks forward to longer summer hours, warm air flowing through the open tent walls, and, of course, seasonal produce to light up the eyes of Portlanders of all ages.
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